Deconstructing Colonial Narratives in Spain
As I wheeled my luggage into the John F. Kennedy airport terminal in New York City, the air was filled with a symphony of sounds that blended the murmurs of conversations in different languages, the echoing announcements over the intercom, and the occasional distant rumble of airplane engines. My heart raced, erratic beats echoing in my chest as I waited for my plane to board.
It was my first time traveling abroad as a first-generation Latina, and I was filled with excitement as I embarked on my journey to Spain. Prior to my departure, I knew that I wanted to learn more about decolonization, and I believed that Spain was the perfect place for this pursuit.
Why decolonization matters
Allow me to express my perspective as an educated Mexican American young woman. The topic I am about to discuss is based on my personal experiences and what I learned while traveling and studying in Spain. I grew up in an immigrant household in the United States, a country where many colonial practices were a daily occurance. As I delved deeper into the topic of colonization, I became acutely aware of its profound impact on people’s daily lives. During my time in Spain, I had the opportunity to gain a firsthand understanding of the global impact of Spain's colonial history.
The theory of decolonization frequently crossed my mind as I explored new places, encountered diverse experiences, and absorbed new knowledge. Decolonization is rooted in the idea of undoing the legacy of colonialism, a historical period during which powerful nations, often from Europe, established and maintained territories in various parts of the world to “civilize” the peoples and to extract valuable resources.
Decolonization further refers to intellectual and political movements that seek to address and rectify the lasting impacts of colonization on societies, cultures, and individuals. It acknowledges that colonization has far-reaching effects that continue to shape social, economic, political, and cultural structures in former colonies, even long after these countries have gained political independence.
It is imperative to embrace decolonization theory as it seeks to restore self-determination, cultural identity, and equality to formerly colonized peoples. Simultaneously, it challenges oppression, promotes social justice, and fosters global solidarity.
Author Berenice Gervacio in Castillo de Trujillo, Spain. The castle, located at the highest elevation of Trujillo, was built from the 9th to 13th century on the site of an old Arab fortress. (Photo: Berenice Gervacio)
My experiences in Spain prompted me to explore several sites that emphasized the significance of addressing historical injustices as a fundamental component of the decolonization process. Some of these historical or touristic sites that I had the privilege of visiting were located in Madrid and Trujillo. Through the deconstruction of historical narratives, I was able to unlock the potential to construct a more accurate, inclusive, and comprehensive understanding of the past. This deconstruction is vital to the decolonization process, as it assists in unveiling hidden biases, amplifying marginalized voices, reclaiming obscured histories, and challenging prevailing power structures.
Trujillo: colonial tourism
Trujillo possesses a unique connection to the Age of Exploration and the “discovery” of the Americas, when powerful European states made concerted efforts to expand their territories at the expense of indigenous communities. While Spanish conquistadors are often depicted as heroic adventurers who discovered “new” lands and introduced “civilization,” the truth is far more complex, and the dominant narrative erases the real suffering that European colonization caused around the world.
As someone who concentrates my studies on Latin America and the Americas more broadly, I was already aware that the story of the conquistadors is far more intricate and layered than the common narrative would have people believe.
Now, close your eyes and imagine finding yourself in a place where time appears to slow down, where the sun gently bathes cobblestone streets that wind through a village suspended in history. Pause at the heart of Trujillo, the Plaza Mayor. The bustling square is the heartbeat of the town. Trujillo is a hidden gem nestled in the region of Extremadura, the southwestern corner of Spain not far from Portugal.
Plaza Mayor de Trujillo, Spain. (Photo: Berenice Gervacio)
Tourism plays a vital role in the economy of Trujillo. The town's historical significance, architectural beauty, and cultural heritage make it a popular destination for both domestic and international tourists. In the Plaza Mayor, there is an office for people who want guided tours of the area; the guides are licensed and trained to know the material.
Trujillo is the proud home of famous conquistadors, such as Francisco Pizzaro, who conquered Peru. Francisco de Orellana, who founded Guayaquil, Ecuador, was the first European to explore the Amazon. Also, Francisco de las Casas accompanied Hernan Cortes in the conquest of Mexico. During the tour in Trujillo, these colonizers are praised for taking the huge risk of going to the Americas and for the massive economic and political influence they had on behalf of Spain during the 16th century.
This narrative of Trujillo’s history, as presented by tourism companies and by the municipal government of Trujillo via its tourism office, is indoctrinating visitors. The companies tell a story to tourists about how the conquistadors should be praised for their explorations, accomplishments, and for the discovery of the Americas. The tour guides tell the same story over and over again without changing anything - a particular story that promotes the Spanish colonial project whilst erasing the real harm done to the preexisting indigenous communities in the places the Spanish claim to have “discovered.” These communities often faced displacement, violence, and the imposition of European cultural and religious norms.
If the real truth were told, it would destroy the narrative of Trujillo and erode the city as a big tourist attraction. Trujillo’s modern tourist economy is based on historical narratives that function to propel colonization into the future by misrepresenting the past.
Madrid: a misleading museum
Another site that presents a similarly misleading narrative is the Museo De América (Museum of the Americas) in Madrid, Spain. The Museo de América mission statement serves a similar function: “Conserving to know and knowing to progress is the objective of the museum, in which research and social function come together in a practical way to try to help understand the challenges of the present in the society to which the museum provides its service.”
Meanwhile, indigenous people are presented as monsters in the entire museum. I say this because when I entered the first area of the museum, the first thing I read was the name "el conocimiento" (“the discovery”). One of the descriptions I found in the museum, pictured below, refers to indigenous people as “seres monstruosos” (“monstrous beings”).
Plaque in Museo de Americas, Madrid, Spain. The third paragraph describes how colonizers often viewed indigenous people in the Americas as “monstrous beings.” The plaque reads in English, “For this reason, America was initially a land inhabited by all types of monstrous beings - both animals and humans - that responded to the European imaginary world at the same time, all the possible paradises in which men lived in the golden age were located there.” (Photo and translation: Berenice Gervacio)
Although indigenous people were considered monstrous in the past, as was the custom of the day, this representation is disrespectful and purposefully misleading today. It fails to challenge the negative impact that Spanish colonization continues to have on the indigenous people to this day. Similarly, there is an area in the museum called "The Reality of America," in which nothing is mentioned about Latin America, an omission of grave importance.
Afterwards, I walked around the museum and realized that the arrangement of the rooms themselves tells a troubling story. The selection and placement of the objects are all aimed at continuing a specific, often nationalistic, narrative. The dominant message is still clear, even without taking a formal guided tour.
The value of a critical approach
I am not trying to discourage people from going to famous tourist sites or museums. However, I think it is important to be an informed consumer of culture. An understanding of the background and significance of certain sites or objects, especially their relevance today, enables consumers to identify and read past nationalistic messaging in these spaces.
When traveling to these kinds of sites, think about the arrangement of rooms and the placement of objects in the rooms versus the objects that are in the basement. Read the plaques or brochures, and read a couple paragraphs of the organization's objective. Think of museums like an edited document, telling only one specific version of a much more complicated story.
